006: 7 Side Hustles You Can Start This Weekend with Zero Investment

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  Welcome back to Wealth Notes, financial clarity, one note at a time. This is episode six, and today we're getting practical. We're talking about seven side hustles you can start this weekend with zero upfront investment.

  If you've been listening to the previous episodes about budgeting and you're thinking "this would all be so much easier if I just had more money coming in," you're absolutely right. Sometimes the solution isn't cutting expenses, it's increasing income. And that's exactly what we're covering today.

  By the end of this episode, you'll know seven legitimate side hustles, what each one involves, realistic earning potential, how to get started, and most importantly, which one might be the best fit for your skills and schedule.

  Quick reminder before we dive in. This is educational content, not financial advice. I'm not a financial advisor. These are income opportunities to research and explore, but always make informed decisions about your own situation and consult professionals when needed.

  Alright, let's jump in. Here are seven side hustles you can start this weekend with absolutely zero money down.

  Side hustle number one: Freelance writing.

  If you can write clearly and meet deadlines, freelance writing can be a solid side income stream. Businesses, websites, and publications constantly need content. Blog posts, articles, website copy, email newsletters, social media posts. The demand is huge.

  Here's what you need to get started. A computer and internet access. That's it. You don't need a fancy portfolio or a degree in journalism. You just need to be able to write clearly and deliver what you promise.

  Where do you find clients? Start with freelance platforms like Upwork, Fiverr, or Freelancer dot com. Create a free profile, describe what kind of writing you do, set your rates, and start applying to job postings. Yes, there's competition. But there's also tons of work available.

  You can also reach out directly to small businesses in your area. Many local companies need help with their websites, blogs, or social media but don't have a full-time writer on staff. Send a short email introducing yourself and offering your services.

  Realistic earning potential? Beginner freelance writers typically charge fifteen to thirty dollars per hour, or about fifty to one hundred fifty dollars per blog post, depending on length and complexity. As you build experience and a portfolio, you can increase your rates significantly. Experienced freelance writers can make seventy five to one hundred fifty dollars per hour or more.

  Time commitment? This is flexible. You can take on one article per week or ten, depending on your schedule. Most articles take two to four hours to research, write, and edit.

  Skills needed? Clear writing, basic grammar, ability to research topics, and meeting deadlines. If you struggled through high school English, this might not be your best option. But if you enjoy writing and people tell you you're good at it, give it a shot.

  Side hustle number two: Virtual assistant services.

  Virtual assistants provide administrative support to businesses and entrepreneurs remotely. Tasks can include managing emails, scheduling appointments, data entry, social media management, customer service, bookkeeping, or whatever else the client needs help with.

  What you need to get started is a computer, internet, phone, and basic organizational skills. Depending on what services you offer, you might also need familiarity with tools like Google Workspace, Microsoft Office, or scheduling software. But most of these tools are free or have free versions.

  Where do you find clients? Freelance platforms like Upwork and Fiverr again. You can also join virtual assistant specific platforms like Belay, Time Etc, or Fancy Hands. Another option is reaching out directly to small business owners, coaches, consultants, or real estate agents who often need administrative support.

  Realistic earning potential? Virtual assistants typically charge fifteen to thirty five dollars per hour when starting out. With specialized skills like bookkeeping or social media management, you can charge thirty five to seventy five dollars per hour or more.

  Time commitment? Totally flexible. Some virtual assistants work five hours per week, others work thirty. You can take on multiple clients with small projects or one client with regular ongoing work.

  Skills needed? Organization, communication, reliability, and basic tech skills. If you're good at keeping things organized, managing schedules, and handling details, this could be perfect for you.

  Side hustle number three: Online tutoring.

  If you're knowledgeable in any subject, you can tutor students online. Math, science, English, history, foreign languages, test prep, music, coding. Whatever you know well, someone wants to learn it.

  What you need? Computer, internet, webcam, and expertise in your subject. That's it. You don't necessarily need a teaching degree, though it can help for some platforms.

  Where do you find students? Platforms like Tutor dot com, Wyzant, Chegg Tutors, and VIPKid for teaching English to kids in China. You can also advertise locally through Nextdoor, Facebook groups, or community boards. Parents are always looking for tutors.

  Realistic earning potential? Online tutors typically make fifteen to forty dollars per hour for K through twelve subjects. SAT and ACT test prep can pay thirty to sixty dollars per hour. College-level or specialized subjects like coding can pay forty to one hundred dollars per hour or more.

  Time commitment? Flexible. You can tutor a few hours on weekends or several hours after work during the week. Many tutors work around their students' schedules, which often means evenings and weekends.

  Skills needed? Deep knowledge of your subject, patience, ability to explain concepts clearly, and good communication skills. If people have ever said "you should be a teacher," this might be your side hustle.

  Side hustle number four: Pet sitting and dog walking.

  If you love animals, pet sitting and dog walking can be an enjoyable way to earn extra money. Pet owners need reliable people to care for their pets when they're at work or traveling.

  What you need? Nothing except time and a love for animals. If you're walking dogs, comfortable shoes and maybe some dog waste bags. That's it.

  Where do you find clients? Sign up for platforms like Rover, Wag, or Care dot com. These connect pet sitters with pet owners. You can also advertise in local Facebook groups, Nextdoor, or by putting up flyers in your neighborhood.

  Realistic earning potential? Dog walkers typically charge fifteen to thirty dollars per walk, which usually lasts thirty minutes to an hour. Pet sitters charge twenty five to fifty dollars per day for drop-in visits, or fifty to one hundred dollars per night for overnight stays. If you walk multiple dogs from the same household, you can charge more.

  Time commitment? Super flexible. Walk dogs before work, during lunch, or after work. Pet sit on weekends or when you're working from home. You control your schedule completely.

  Skills needed? Reliability, basic animal handling, physical ability to walk dogs, and trustworthiness. Pet owners are inviting you into their homes, so building trust is important.

  Side hustle number five: Selling items online.

  This one is a bit different because it's not ongoing income, but it can generate a nice chunk of cash quickly. Look around your house. You probably have items you no longer use that someone else would pay for. Clothes, electronics, furniture, books, collectibles, kitchen items, sports equipment.

  What you need? Your phone to take photos and list items. That's it.

  Where do you sell? Facebook Marketplace, eBay, Poshmark for clothes, Mercari for general items, OfferUp, Craigslist, or local Buy Nothing groups. Each platform has pros and cons. Facebook Marketplace is great for local pickup of larger items. Poshmark is specifically for clothes and fashion. eBay reaches a huge audience but charges fees.

  Realistic earning potential? This totally depends on what you're selling. You might make fifty dollars selling old books or five hundred dollars selling a piece of furniture. The average person has about three thousand to five thousand dollars worth of items in their home they no longer use. Even selling a fraction of that can give you a financial boost.

  Time commitment? A few hours to go through your stuff, take photos, write descriptions, and list items. Then you respond to buyers and arrange pickup or shipping. Once an item sells, it's done.

  Skills needed? Basic photography with your phone, writing clear descriptions, pricing items fairly, and communication with buyers. Patience helps too, because some items sell immediately and others take weeks.

  Side hustle number six: User testing websites and apps.

  Companies pay people to test their websites and apps to find bugs and get feedback on user experience. You visit a website or use an app, complete specific tasks, and share your thoughts out loud while being recorded. It's surprisingly easy.

  What you need? Computer or smartphone, internet, microphone. Most devices have built-in microphones, so you probably don't need to buy anything.

  Where do you find opportunities? Sign up for platforms like UserTesting, TryMyUI, Userlytics, or Respondent. After you sign up, you'll take a sample test to qualify. Then you'll receive invitations to test websites and apps.

  Realistic earning potential? Most tests pay ten dollars for ten to twenty minutes of work. Some longer tests pay up to sixty dollars for an hour. The challenge is that you won't get test opportunities every day. You might get one to five tests per week depending on your demographics and availability.

  Time commitment? Individual tests take ten to sixty minutes. You can do them whenever you have free time. But availability of tests varies, so this works better as supplemental income rather than your main side hustle.

  Skills needed? Ability to navigate websites and apps, think out loud while using them, and provide honest feedback. If you're comfortable using technology and sharing your opinions, this is simple.

  Side hustle number seven: Task-based gigs on TaskRabbit.

  TaskRabbit connects people who need help with tasks to people willing to do those tasks. This includes furniture assembly, moving help, home repairs, cleaning, organizing, yard work, running errands, and more.

  What you need? Depends on the tasks you want to do. For many tasks, you just need your time and basic tools you already own. For furniture assembly, a basic tool set helps. For cleaning, cleaning supplies. For moving help, just physical ability to lift.

  Where do you find work? Sign up on TaskRabbit dot com. Create a profile, list the types of tasks you're willing to do, set your hourly rate, and choose your availability. Clients post tasks, and you can apply to the ones that fit your schedule and skills.

  Realistic earning potential? TaskRabbit rates vary by location and task type. Taskers typically charge twenty to seventy dollars per hour depending on the job complexity. Furniture assembly and handyman tasks tend to pay more than basic errands or cleaning.

  Time commitment? Totally up to you. Take on one task per weekend or multiple tasks throughout the week. Each task might take one to four hours depending on complexity.

  Skills needed? Depends on which tasks you want to do. Basic handyman skills are valuable. Physical fitness for moving and assembly tasks. Reliability and good communication are important for all tasks.

  Now let's talk about some important considerations for any side hustle.

  First, taxes. When you earn money from side hustles, that's taxable income. The platforms might send you a ten ninety nine form at the end of the year if you earn over a certain amount, typically six hundred dollars. Even if you don't get a ten ninety nine, you're supposed to report the income on your tax return. Set aside fifteen to twenty five percent of your side hustle earnings for taxes. Talk to a tax professional about how to handle this properly, especially if you're earning more than a few thousand dollars per year.

  Second, time management. Side hustles require time. Be realistic about how much extra time you actually have. If you're already working fifty hours per week at your main job and barely keeping up, adding a side hustle might burn you out. Start small. Commit to five hours per week and see how it feels before scaling up.

  Third, energy management. Some side hustles are physically demanding, like dog walking or TaskRabbit jobs. Others are mentally demanding, like writing or tutoring. Choose something that matches your energy levels. If your day job is physically exhausting, maybe a desk-based side hustle like virtual assistant work makes more sense. If your day job is mentally draining, maybe dog walking is a nice change of pace.

  Fourth, startup time versus ongoing income. Most side hustles take time to build. Your first month doing freelance writing, you might only make one hundred dollars while you build your profile and land clients. By month three, you might be making five hundred to one thousand dollars per month. Don't expect huge income immediately. Give it at least three months before deciding if it's working.

  Fifth, skill development. Choose a side hustle that either uses skills you already have or helps you develop skills you want. If you want to improve your writing, freelance writing makes sense. If you want to learn about social media marketing, virtual assistant work with a focus on social media is valuable. Your side hustle can actually enhance your resume and open future opportunities.

  Sixth, enjoyment matters. You're already working your full-time job. Your side hustle shouldn't make you miserable. If you hate writing, don't force yourself to do freelance writing just because it pays well. If you love animals, dog walking might feel more like fun than work. Choose something you can at least tolerate, ideally something you enjoy.

  Let's talk about realistic expectations. How much can you actually make from side hustles?

  If you're working five to ten hours per week on a side hustle, you can realistically expect to make three hundred to eight hundred dollars per month after the initial ramp-up period. That's based on earning fifteen to forty dollars per hour, which is typical for the side hustles we discussed.

  If you're really committed and working fifteen to twenty hours per week, you could make one thousand to two thousand dollars per month or more.

  For context, an extra five hundred dollars per month is six thousand dollars per year. That could fully fund a Roth IRA, pay off a credit card, build an emergency fund, or cover a nice vacation. It's meaningful money.

  But be realistic. You won't make two thousand dollars in your first month unless you get really lucky. Building a side hustle takes time, consistency, and effort. Treat it like a real business, not a hobby, and it can grow into significant income.

  Here's my challenge for you. Pick one side hustle from this episode that matches your skills and schedule. This weekend, take one action to get started. If it's freelance writing, create an Upwork profile. If it's virtual assistant work, research what services you could offer. If it's dog walking, sign up for Rover. If it's selling items, go through one room in your house and identify ten things to sell.

  Just take one action. You don't have to commit to anything huge. But taking that first step is how side hustles begin.

  Coming up in episode seven, we're getting even more specific about gig economy side hustles. We're comparing DoorDash versus Uber Eats versus Instacart. Which one actually pays better? What are the real costs of driving for these services? How much can you realistically make per hour? We're breaking down the numbers so you can make an informed decision about whether delivery gigs are worth your time.

  Head over to wealthnotes.co for today's show notes. You'll find direct links to all the platforms we mentioned, plus a free side hustle comparison chart that breaks down earning potential, time commitment, and skills needed for each option. You'll also find tips for setting up your tax withholding for side hustle income.

  If this episode was helpful, share it with someone who's been talking about wanting to make extra money. Sometimes people just need to know where to start, and this gives them seven concrete options.

  Remember, this is educational content, not financial advice. Always consult with a qualified financial professional, especially about tax implications of side hustle income.

  Thanks for listening to Wealth Notes. New episodes drop every Tuesday and Friday. Subscribe so you don't miss them.

  Financial clarity comes one note at a time. I'll see you in episode seven where we're diving deep into delivery service side hustles.

005: How to Use the 50/30/20 Budget Rule for Financial Success

Introduction

The 50/30/20 rule is one of the most popular budgeting methods because it's beautifully simple: divide your after-tax income into three categories and you're done. But in 2025, with housing costs skyrocketing and living expenses higher than ever, is this rule still realistic?

In Episode 5 of Wealth Notes, we break down how the 50/30/20 rule works, where it came from, whether it's still achievable, and how to adjust it for your situation.

Listen to the full episode above, or read the notes below.

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Key Takeaways

What Is the 50/30/20 Rule?

The 50/30/20 rule is a budgeting framework created by Senator Elizabeth Warren and her daughter Amelia Warren Tyagi in their book "All Your Worth: The Ultimate Lifetime Money Plan."

Here's how it works:

• 50% goes to needs - Essential expenses you can't avoid

• 30% goes to wants - Non-essential expenses that make life enjoyable

• 20% goes to savings and debt payoff - Building your financial future

No complicated tracking. No assigning every dollar a specific job. Just three buckets.

The 50%: Needs

Needs are essential living expenses. Here's what typically falls into this category:

Housing Costs

• Rent or mortgage payment

• Property taxes

• Home insurance

• HOA fees

Utilities

• Electric, gas, water, trash

• Internet (essential for work in 2025)

Groceries

• Food you buy at the grocery store to cook at home

• Does NOT include dining out (that's a want)

Transportation

• Car payment

• Gas

• Car insurance

• Public transportation

• Rideshare for essential trips

• Regular maintenance and repairs

Insurance

• Health insurance premiums

• Car insurance

• Life insurance

• Disability insurance

Minimum Debt Payments

• Student loan minimums

• Credit card minimums

• Personal loan minimums

• Just the minimums—extra payments go in the 20% category

Healthcare

• Copays

• Prescriptions

• Necessary medical expenses not covered by insurance

Childcare

• Daycare

• Babysitting for work hours

• After-school care

The 30%: Wants

Wants are everything that enhances your life but isn't strictly necessary:

• Dining out and takeout - Restaurants, coffee shops, food delivery

• Entertainment - Streaming services, concerts, movies, sporting events, hobbies

• Shopping - Clothes beyond basics, home decor, electronics, gadgets

• Travel and vacations - Flights, hotels, weekend trips

• Personal care upgrades - Salon visits, spa treatments, nice skincare

• Subscriptions and memberships - Netflix, Spotify, premium apps

• Gifts and celebrations - Birthday presents, holiday gifts, events

The 20%: Savings and Debt Payoff

This is where you build future financial security:

• Emergency fund - Building 3-6 months of expenses

• Retirement savings - 401(k) contributions, Roth IRA, other retirement accounts

• Debt payoff beyond minimums - Extra payments on student loans, credit cards, car loans, mortgage principal

• Other savings goals - Down payment fund, car replacement fund, education savings, investment accounts

---

Is It Still Realistic in 2025?

Here's where things get interesting.

When Elizabeth Warren created this rule in the early 2000s, housing costs were generally more affordable. Fast forward to 2025, and housing alone can easily eat up 50-60% of income in high cost of living areas like New York, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Seattle, or Boston.

So is the rule still relevant? Yes and no.

It's still a great framework for understanding how money should be divided. But you might need to adjust the percentages based on your specific situation.

Common Variations in 2025

The 60/30/10 Rule

• 60% needs, 30% wants, 10% savings

• For high cost of living areas

• Not ideal, but realistic for some situations

The 50/20/30 Rule

• 50% needs, 20% wants, 30% savings

• Flips the last two categories

• Accelerates wealth building but requires discipline

The 70/20/10 Rule

• 70% needs, 20% wants, 10% savings

• For expensive cities or significant debt payoff periods

• Not ideal long-term, but sometimes necessary

Key insight: Use 50/30/20 as a guideline, not a rigid law. If your needs exceed 50%, that's a signal—either housing costs are too high for your income, or you need to find ways to increase income.

---

How to Implement the 50/30/20 Rule: Step-by-Step

Step 1: Calculate Your After-Tax Income

This is your take-home pay after taxes, health insurance premiums, retirement contributions, and any other automatic deductions.

If you get paid twice monthly, add both paychecks. If income varies, use an average from the past 3-6 months.

Example: Monthly after-tax income = $4,000

Step 2: Calculate Target Amounts for Each Category

• 50% of $4,000 = $2,000 (needs budget)

• 30% of $4,000 = $1,200 (wants budget)

• 20% of $4,000 = $800 (savings budget)

Step 3: Track Actual Spending for a Month

Go through bank and credit card statements for the last month. Categorize every expense as need, want, or savings. Add up each category.

Maybe you discover:

• Needs: $2,400 (60%)

• Wants: $1,000 (25%)

• Savings: $600 (15%)

Now you know where the gaps are.

Step 4: Adjust Spending to Align With Targets

If overspending in one category, look for places to cut:

• Needs too high? Maybe housing or car costs are beyond your budget

• Wants too high? Dining out, shopping, or subscriptions eating too much

• Savings too low? Haven't made it automatic yet

Make a plan to shift spending closer to 50/30/20 over the next few months.

Step 5: Automate What You Can

• Set up automatic transfers to savings on payday

• Set up automatic extra debt payments

• This ensures the 20% happens before you can spend it

For needs, many bills are already automatic (rent, utilities, subscriptions).

For wants, exercise active control. Decide monthly limits for dining out, entertainment, shopping.

---

Real Example: Marcus's 50/30/20 Budget

Marcus earns $5,000 per month after taxes.

50% for needs = $2,500

• Rent: $1,400

• Utilities: $120

• Groceries: $400

• Gas: $100

• Car insurance: $120

• Health copays/prescriptions: $60

• Student loan minimum: $200

• Phone bill: $60

• Total: $2,460 ✓

30% for wants = $1,500

• Dining out: $300

• Streaming services: $40

• Gym membership: $50

• Hobbies: $100

• Shopping: $200

• Weekend activities: $200

• Personal care: $110

• Miscellaneous fun: $500

• Total: $1,500 ✓

20% for savings = $1,000

• Emergency fund: $400

• Roth IRA: $300

• Extra student loan payments: $300

• Total: $1,000 ✓

Marcus's breakdown: 49% needs, 30% wants, 21% savings. Close enough!

---

Common Challenges with the 50/30/20 Rule

Challenge 1: Housing Costs Are Too High

If rent/mortgage alone is 50-60% of income, you'll struggle with this framework.

Options:

• Increase income

• Get a roommate to split costs

• Move to cheaper housing

• Accept a different percentage split until income grows

Challenge 2: Debt Payments Are Crushing the Budget

If minimum debt payments eat up a huge portion of the needs category:

• Consider refinancing for lower payments

• Look into income-driven repayment plans for student loans

• Focus aggressively on highest-interest debt first to free up cash flow

Challenge 3: Income Is Too Low

If earning minimum wage or close to it, needs might take 70-80% of income.

This isn't a budgeting failure—it's an income problem. Focus on increasing income through side hustles (covered in Episode 6), job changes, or skill development.

Challenge 4: Variable Income

Use your lowest typical month as your baseline. Apply 50/30/20 to that amount. In higher-earning months, put extra toward savings or debt payoff.

Challenge 5: The Rule Feels Too Loose

Some people want more structure and detail. If that's you, zero-based budgeting (Episode 4) might be a better fit.

The 50/30/20 rule works best for people who want general guidelines without tracking every transaction.

---

Tools to Help You Implement 50/30/20

Automatic Budgeting Apps

Empower.com

• Free version available

YNAB - Can work for 50/30/20 even though designed for zero-based budgeting

• Set up broader categories with percentage targets

Simple Spreadsheets

Three columns: Needs, Wants, Savings

• Track spending manually for a month

• Categorize everything

• Compare to targets

Envelope Method with Three Envelopes

Physical cash divided into three envelopes:

• Needs envelope

• Wants envelope

• Savings envelope

Spend directly from each envelope. When wants envelope is empty, no more discretionary spending that month.

Separate Bank Accounts

Open three checking/savings accounts:

• Needs account

• Wants account

• Savings account

Divide paycheck into three accounts based on percentages when paid.

---

Important Question: Do Pre-Tax Retirement Contributions Count?

If contributing to a 401(k) through paycheck deductions, that money never hits your bank account. Your after-tax income already reflects that you're saving.

Approach:

• If contributing enough to get full employer match, count that as part of your 20%

• If not saving beyond that 401(k), add additional savings to reach full 20%

Example:

• Contributing 10% to 401(k) through paycheck

• Employer matches 5%

• Total: 15% retirement savings

• Add another 5% to other savings to hit 20% target

If already contributing 15%+ to 401(k) with employer match: You're already saving more than 20%. You might relax additional savings requirement or redirect to other goals.

The point: Save at least 20% of gross income somewhere—whether pre-tax retirement accounts or after-tax savings.

---

Summary: The 50/30/20 Rule

• 50% needs - Housing, utilities, groceries, transportation, insurance, minimum debt payments

• 30% wants - Dining out, entertainment, shopping, travel, fun stuff

• 20% savings - Emergency fund, retirement, extra debt payments, investments

This is a guideline, not a law. Adjust percentages based on your situation. The goal is balance between living now and building for the future.

---

Your Challenge

Track your spending for the next month and see how close you are to 50/30/20.

You might be surprised. Maybe you're spending 60% on needs and only 5% on savings. That's valuable information—it tells you where to focus.

---

Resources & Tools

Budgeting Apps:

• Empower.com

• YNAB - Premium budgeting app with free trial

Recommended Reading:

• All Your Worth: The Ultimate Lifetime Money Plan by Elizabeth Warren and Amelia Warren Tyagi - Original book introducing the 50/30/20 rule*

*Affiliate link

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Take Action This Week

Today:

• Calculate your after-tax income

• Calculate your 50/30/20 target amounts

• Download the free calculator

This Week:

• Review last month's bank statements

• Categorize every expense (needs, wants, savings)

• See how close you are to 50/30/20

This Month:

• Make one adjustment to get closer to targets

• Automate your savings (the 20%)

• Track progress

---

What's Next?

In Episode 6: "7 Side Hustles You Can Start This Weekend with Zero Investment" we're covering practical side hustle ideas you can implement immediately.

If you're looking at your 50/30/20 breakdown and realizing you need more income to make it work, Episode 6 will give you actionable options.

---

Discussion

We'd love to hear from you:

• What's your current spending breakdown?

• Which category is hardest for you to stay within?

• Are you in a high cost of living area where 50% needs isn't realistic?

Share your experience on Instagram or Twitter using #WealthNotes.

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Listen to More Episodes

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Full Episode Transcript

• Transcript

  Welcome back to Wealth Notes, financial clarity, one note at a time. This is episode five, and today we're talking about one of the most popular budgeting methods out there, the fifty thirty twenty rule. If you listened to episode four about zero-based budgeting and thought "that sounds like way too much work," this episode is for you.

  The fifty thirty twenty rule is beautifully simple. You divide your after-tax income into three categories. Fifty percent goes to needs, thirty percent goes to wants, and twenty percent goes to savings and debt payoff. That's it. No complicated tracking, no assigning every single dollar a job. Just three buckets.

  By the end of this episode, you'll understand how the fifty thirty twenty rule works, where it came from, whether it's still realistic in twenty twenty five, how to implement it, and most importantly, whether it's the right approach for your situation.

  Quick reminder before we dive in. This is educational content, not financial advice. I'm not a financial advisor. For personalized guidance on your specific financial situation, always work with a qualified financial professional.

  Alright, let's start with the basics. What is the fifty thirty twenty rule?

  The fifty thirty twenty rule is a budgeting framework created by Senator Elizabeth Warren and her daughter Amelia Warren Tyagi in their book "All Your Worth: The Ultimate Lifetime Money Plan." The idea is to simplify budgeting by dividing your after-tax income into three categories.

  Fifty percent goes to needs. These are essential expenses you can't avoid. Things like housing, utilities, groceries, transportation, insurance, minimum debt payments. The stuff you need to survive and function.

  Thirty percent goes to wants. These are non-essential expenses that make life enjoyable. Dining out, entertainment, hobbies, subscriptions, shopping, travel. The fun stuff.

  Twenty percent goes to savings and debt payoff beyond minimums. Emergency fund, retirement contributions, extra payments on loans, investments. The future stuff.

  Let's break down each category in detail so you understand what actually goes where.

  The fifty percent for needs. This covers your essential living expenses. Here's what typically falls into this category.

  Housing costs. Rent or mortgage payment, property taxes, home insurance, HOA fees. If you rent, it's your monthly rent. If you own, it's your mortgage payment plus related costs.

  Utilities. Electric, gas, water, trash, internet. Some people consider internet a want, but in twenty twenty five, it's pretty essential for work and daily life, so we're calling it a need.

  Groceries. Food you buy at the grocery store to cook at home. Notice I said groceries, not dining out. Restaurant meals go in the wants category.

  Transportation. Car payment, gas, car insurance, public transportation costs, rideshare for essential trips like getting to work. Regular maintenance and repairs also go here.

  Insurance. Health insurance premiums, car insurance, life insurance, disability insurance. Basically, insurance that protects you and your family.

  Minimum debt payments. Student loan minimums, credit card minimums, personal loan minimums. Just the minimum required payments, not extra amounts you're paying to get out of debt faster. Those extra payments go in the twenty percent savings category.

  Healthcare. Copays, prescriptions, necessary medical expenses not covered by insurance.

  Childcare. Daycare, babysitting for work hours, after-school care. If you need it to work, it's a need.

  The thirty percent for wants. This is everything that enhances your life but isn't strictly necessary. Here's what goes in this category.

  Dining out and takeout. Restaurants, coffee shops, food delivery, grabbing lunch at work. All of it goes here.

  Entertainment. Streaming services, concert tickets, movies, sporting events, hobbies, gym memberships, books, games.

  Shopping. Clothes beyond basic necessities, home decor, electronics, gadgets, anything you want but don't strictly need.

  Travel and vacations. Flights, hotels, weekend trips, vacation expenses.

  Personal care upgrades. Salon visits, spa treatments, nice skincare products, anything beyond basic hygiene.

  Subscriptions and memberships. Netflix, Spotify, subscription boxes, premium apps, anything you pay for monthly that's not essential.

  Gifts and celebrations. Birthday presents, holiday gifts, celebrations, events.

  The twenty percent for savings and debt payoff. This is where you build your future financial security.

  Emergency fund. Building up three to six months of expenses in a savings account for unexpected costs.

  Retirement savings. Four oh one k contributions beyond any employer match, Roth IRA contributions, other retirement accounts.

  Debt payoff beyond minimums. Extra payments on student loans, credit cards, car loans, mortgage principal. Anything beyond the minimum goes here.

  Other savings goals. Down payment for a house, car replacement fund, education savings, investment accounts.

  Now let's talk about whether this rule is still realistic in twenty twenty five. This is where things get interesting.

  When Elizabeth Warren created this rule in the early two thousands, housing costs were generally more affordable. You could find decent rent or buy a home and stay within that fifty percent for needs category. Fast forward to twenty twenty five, and that's not always realistic anymore.

  In high cost of living areas like New York, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Seattle, Boston, housing alone can easily eat up fifty to sixty percent of your income. Add in other essentials, and you might be spending seventy or even eighty percent on needs, leaving very little for wants and savings.

  So is the rule still relevant? Yes and no. It's still a great framework for understanding how your money should be divided. But you might need to adjust the percentages based on your specific situation and location.

  Here are some common variations people use in twenty twenty five.

  The sixty thirty ten rule. If you're in a high cost of living area, you might need to allocate sixty percent to needs, thirty percent to wants, and ten percent to savings. It's not ideal, but it's realistic for some situations.

  The fifty twenty thirty rule. Some people flip the last two categories, putting thirty percent toward savings and twenty percent toward wants. This accelerates wealth building but requires more discipline with discretionary spending.

  The seventy twenty ten rule. In expensive cities or during times when you're paying off significant debt, you might spend seventy percent on needs, twenty percent on wants, and ten percent on savings. Again, not ideal long-term, but sometimes necessary.

  The key is to use the fifty thirty twenty rule as a guideline, not a rigid law. If your needs are eating up more than fifty percent, that's a signal. Either your housing costs are too high for your income, or you need to find ways to increase your income. It doesn't mean you're failing at budgeting. It means you need to make some adjustments.

  Let's walk through how to actually implement the fifty thirty twenty rule.

  Step one. Calculate your after-tax income.

  This is your take-home pay after taxes, health insurance premiums, retirement contributions, and any other automatic deductions. If you get paid twice a month, add both paychecks together. If your income varies, use an average from the past three to six months.

  Let's say your monthly after-tax income is four thousand dollars. Write that down.

  Step two. Calculate your target amounts for each category.

  Fifty percent of four thousand is two thousand. That's your needs budget.

  Thirty percent of four thousand is one thousand two hundred. That's your wants budget.

  Twenty percent of four thousand is eight hundred. That's your savings and debt payoff budget.

  Step three. Track your actual spending for a month.

  Go through your bank statements and credit card statements for the last month. Categorize every expense as either a need, want, or savings. Add up each category and see where you actually stand.

  Maybe you discover you're spending two thousand four hundred on needs, one thousand on wants, and only six hundred on savings. Now you know where the gaps are.

  Step four. Adjust your spending to align with the targets.

  If you're overspending in one category, look for places to cut. Maybe your needs are too high because you're paying for a car you can't really afford. Maybe your wants are too high because you eat out constantly. Maybe your savings are too low because you haven't made it automatic.

  Make a plan to shift your spending closer to the fifty thirty twenty split over the next few months. You probably won't get there overnight, and that's okay.

  Step five. Automate what you can.

  Set up automatic transfers to savings on payday. Set up automatic extra debt payments. This ensures the twenty percent happens before you have a chance to spend it on needs or wants.

  For the needs category, many bills are already automatic. Rent, utilities, subscriptions. That's fine.

  For wants, this is where you'll exercise the most active control. Decide how much you want to spend on dining out each month, and stick to it. Same with entertainment, shopping, all of it.

  Let's walk through a realistic example.

  Marcus earns five thousand dollars per month after taxes. Here's how he'd apply the fifty thirty twenty rule.

  Fifty percent for needs is two thousand five hundred dollars. Marcus's needs look like this. Rent is one thousand four hundred dollars. Utilities are one hundred twenty. Groceries are four hundred. Gas is one hundred. Car insurance is one hundred twenty. Health insurance copays and prescriptions are sixty. Student loan minimum payment is two hundred. Phone bill is sixty. That totals two thousand four hundred sixty. He's within his needs budget with forty dollars to spare.

  Thirty percent for wants is one thousand five hundred dollars. Marcus's wants include dining out at three hundred, streaming services at forty, gym membership at fifty, hobbies at one hundred, shopping at two hundred, weekend activities at two hundred, personal care at one hundred ten, and miscellaneous fun at five hundred. That totals one thousand five hundred exactly.

  Twenty percent for savings and debt payoff is one thousand dollars. Marcus allocates four hundred to emergency fund, three hundred to Roth IRA, and three hundred to extra student loan payments. That totals one thousand.

  Marcus's total is two thousand four hundred sixty plus one thousand five hundred plus one thousand, which equals four thousand nine hundred sixty. He has forty dollars left unallocated, which he adds to his emergency fund. Now he's at exactly five thousand.

  Marcus is following the fifty thirty twenty rule pretty closely. His needs are at forty nine percent, wants at thirty percent, and savings at twenty one percent. Close enough.

  Now let's talk about common challenges with the fifty thirty twenty rule.

  Challenge one. Housing costs are too high.

  If your rent or mortgage alone is eating up fifty to sixty percent of your income, you're going to struggle with this framework. Your options are limited. Either find a way to increase your income, get a roommate to split costs, move to a cheaper place, or accept that you'll need to use a different percentage split until your income grows.

  Challenge two. Debt payments are crushing the budget.

  If your minimum debt payments are eating up a huge portion of your needs category, it's hard to fit everything else in. Consider whether you can refinance for lower payments, look into income-driven repayment plans for student loans, or focus aggressively on paying off the highest-interest debt first to free up cash flow.

  Challenge three. Income is too low.

  If you're earning minimum wage or close to it, the fifty thirty twenty rule might feel impossible. Your needs might be taking up seventy or eighty percent of your income, leaving almost nothing for wants or savings. This isn't a budgeting failure. It's an income problem. Focus on increasing your income through side hustles, job changes, or skill development. We're actually covering side hustles in episode six, so stay tuned for that.

  Challenge four. Variable income.

  If your income changes month to month, use your lowest typical month as your baseline. Apply the fifty thirty twenty rule to that amount. In higher-earning months, put the extra money toward savings or debt payoff.

  Challenge five. The rule feels too loose.

  Some people find the fifty thirty twenty rule too vague. They want more structure and detail. If that's you, zero-based budgeting from episode four might be a better fit. The fifty thirty twenty rule works best for people who want general guidelines without tracking every transaction.

  Let's talk about tools that can help you implement the fifty thirty twenty rule.

  First, automatic budgeting apps. Mint is a free app that automatically categorizes your spending and shows you how much you're spending in different categories. You can set up custom categories for needs, wants, and savings, and it'll track everything for you.

  Personal Capital is another option. It's particularly good if you want to track investments and net worth alongside your budget.

  YNAB can also work for the fifty thirty twenty rule, even though it's designed for zero-based budgeting. You can set up broader categories and use the percentage targets.

  Second, simple spreadsheets. You don't need anything fancy. Three columns labeled needs, wants, and savings. Track your spending manually for a month, categorize everything, add it up, and compare to your targets.

  Third, the envelope method with three envelopes. Some people literally use cash and three envelopes labeled needs, wants, and savings. They divide their paycheck into the three envelopes based on the percentages and spend directly from each envelope. When the wants envelope is empty, no more discretionary spending that month. This is very tangible and prevents overspending.

  Fourth, separate bank accounts. Open three checking accounts or savings accounts. Label them needs, wants, and savings. When you get paid, divide your paycheck into the three accounts based on the percentages. Pay bills from the needs account, fun stuff from the wants account, and never touch the savings account except for its intended purpose.

  The tool doesn't matter as much as the habit of being intentional with your percentages.

  Now let's address a common question. Should retirement contributions that come out of your paycheck before you see the money count toward the twenty percent savings?

  This is a bit of a gray area. Technically, if you're contributing to a four oh one k through paycheck deductions, that money never hits your bank account. So your after-tax income already reflects that you're saving.

  Here's how I'd approach it. If you're contributing enough to get your full employer match, count that as part of your twenty percent. You're saving, even though it's automated. If you're not saving anything beyond that four oh one k, you might want to add additional savings to reach the full twenty percent.

  For example, if you're contributing ten percent to your four oh one k through paycheck deductions, and your employer matches five percent, that's fifteen percent total retirement savings. You'd want to add another five percent going to other savings to hit the full twenty percent target.

  But if you're contributing fifteen percent to your four oh one k and getting an employer match, you're already saving more than twenty percent. In that case, you might relax the additional savings requirement or redirect some to other goals.

  The point is to make sure you're saving at least twenty percent of your gross income somewhere, whether it's pre-tax retirement accounts or after-tax savings.

  Let's recap the fifty thirty twenty rule.

  Fifty percent of your after-tax income goes to needs. Essential expenses like housing, utilities, groceries, transportation, insurance, and minimum debt payments.

  Thirty percent goes to wants. Non-essential expenses that make life enjoyable like dining out, entertainment, shopping, and travel.

  Twenty percent goes to savings and debt payoff beyond minimums. Emergency fund, retirement, extra debt payments, and investment accounts.

  This is a guideline, not a law. Adjust the percentages based on your situation. The goal is to have a framework that keeps you balanced between living now and building for the future.

  Here's my challenge for you. Track your spending for the next month and see how close you are to fifty thirty twenty. You might be surprised. Maybe you're spending sixty percent on needs and only five percent on savings. That's valuable information. It tells you where to focus your energy.

  Coming up in episode six, we're talking about side hustles. Specifically, seven side hustles you can start this weekend with zero investment. If you're looking at your fifty thirty twenty breakdown and realizing you need more income to make it work, episode six is going to give you practical ideas you can implement immediately.

  Head over to wealthnotes.co for today's show notes. You'll find a free fifty thirty twenty budget calculator, a simple tracking spreadsheet, and links to all the budgeting apps we mentioned. You'll also find more details about adjusting the percentages for high cost of living areas.

  If this episode was helpful, share it with someone who wants a simple budgeting framework. The fifty thirty twenty rule is perfect for people who are just starting to think about budgeting or who find detailed tracking overwhelming.

  Remember, this is educational content, not financial advice. Always consult with a qualified financial professional before making major financial decisions.

  Thanks for listening to Wealth Notes. New episodes drop every Tuesday and Friday. Subscribe so you don't miss them.

  Financial clarity comes one note at a time.

About Wealth Notes

Wealth Notes is a financial education podcast that breaks down budgeting, side hustles, debt strategies, credit building, and investing basics in 10-15 minute episodes. No jargon. No overcomplicated theories. Just straightforward financial education.

New episodes every week.

Disclaimer: This podcast provides educational content only and is not financial advice. Always consult with a qualified financial professional before making any financial decisions.

KEYWORDS: 50/30/20 rule, 50 30 20 budget, budgeting for beginners, simple budget, Elizabeth Warren budget, needs wants savings, budgeting methods, personal finance, money management

004: Zero-Based Budgeting Explained: Assign Every Dollar a Job

Introduction

If you've ever wondered where your money went at the end of the month, zero-based budgeting might be your answer. In Episode 4 of Wealth Notes, we break down this powerful budgeting method that gives every single dollar a specific job before you spend it.

Zero-based budgeting isn't about restriction—it's about intention. By the end of this guide, you'll understand exactly how it works and whether it's the right approach for you.

Listen to the full episode above, or read the transcript and download your free template below.

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Key Takeaways

What Is Zero-Based Budgeting?

Zero-based budgeting is a method where you assign every single dollar of your income a specific job before the month begins. The goal: income minus expenses and savings equals zero.

Not zero in your bank account—zero unassigned dollars in your budget.

If you earn $4,000 per month, you decide in advance exactly where all $4,000 will go: rent, groceries, utilities, savings, debt payments, entertainment. You keep assigning until you've allocated every dollar.

This method was popularized by financial educator Dave Ramsey, who calls it "giving every dollar a name." When money has a specific purpose, you're less likely to waste it.

What Zero-Based Budgeting Is NOT

It's not about eliminating spending or depriving yourself. You can absolutely budget for dining out, entertainment, shopping—whatever matters to you. The point is to make spending intentional, not to eliminate it.

Why This Method Works

Eliminates Decision Fatigue When you've already decided where your money goes, you don't make that decision every time you're tempted to spend. Check your budget, see what's allocated, make your choice.

Reveals Spending Patterns When you assign every dollar, you quickly see where money actually goes. Think you spend $100 monthly eating out? You might discover it's closer to $300.

Prioritizes What Matters You have to make trade-offs. Want to spend more on travel? Spend less somewhere else. This forces you to think about your values.

Great for Variable Income Income changes month to month? Adjust allocations based on what you actually earned. Some months assign more to savings. Other months cut back on variables.

The Honest Downsides

Zero-based budgeting requires work, especially initially. You track spending, review categories, adjust allocations. It's hands-on.

If you hate dealing with numbers or find budgeting stressful, this might not be your favorite method. Some people prefer looser systems where they save a percentage and don't worry about the rest. That's fine—not every method works for everyone.

---

How to Set Up Zero-Based Budgeting: Step-by-Step

Step 1: Calculate Your Monthly Income

Use your take-home pay after taxes. If paid twice monthly, add both paychecks. If income varies, use your lowest typical month (conservative) or average the past 3-6 months.

Example: Monthly take-home = $3,500

Step 2: List All Expenses and Savings Goals

Fixed Expenses (same every month):

• Rent/mortgage

• Car payment

• Insurance

• Subscriptions

• Minimum debt payments

Variable Expenses (change monthly):

• Groceries

• Gas

• Utilities

• Phone bill

• Personal care

Discretionary Spending (the fun stuff):

• Dining out

• Entertainment

• Shopping

• Hobbies

Savings & Debt Payoff:

• Emergency fund contributions

• Retirement savings

• Extra debt payments

• Sinking funds (car repairs, holidays)

Write each with dollar amounts.

Step 3: Assign Every Dollar Until You Reach Zero

Add up all categories. Keep adding until you've allocated all $3,500.

Run out of money before covering everything? Make cuts. Reduce discretionary spending or lower variable expenses.

Money left over? Assign it somewhere. More savings, extra debt payment, specific goal. Don't leave it unassigned.

When done: Income - All Allocations = $0

Step 4: Track Spending Throughout the Month

As you spend, track against your budget. Allocated $200 for groceries, spent $150? You have $50 remaining.

Use apps like YNAB (designed for zero-based budgeting), EveryDollar (Dave Ramsey's app), or a simple spreadsheet.

Step 5: Adjust as Needed

Your first budget won't be perfect. You'll underestimate some categories, overestimate others. That's normal.

Run out of grocery money mid-month? Move money from another category with room. Maybe you overestimated gas—reallocate some to groceries. You can shift between categories as long as you stay within your overall budget.

After a few months, estimates get more accurate and the process becomes easier.

---

Real Example: Sarah's Zero-Based Budget

Sarah earns $3,000 monthly take-home. Here's her budget:

Fixed Expenses: $1,500

• Rent: $900

• Car payment: $250

• Car insurance: $100

• Student loan minimum: $150

• Phone bill: $70

• Streaming subscriptions: $30

Variable Expenses: $550

• Groceries: $300

• Gas: $120

• Utilities: $80

• Personal care: $50

Discretionary: $375

• Dining out: $150

• Entertainment: $75

• Shopping: $100

• Hobbies: $50

Savings & Debt Payoff: $575

• Emergency fund: $200

• Extra to student loans: $200

• Roth IRA: $175

Total: $1,500 + $550 + $375 + $575 = $3,000

Income ($3,000) - Allocations ($3,000) = $0 ✓

Mid-month, Sarah realizes she underestimated groceries. She's spent $300 with two weeks left. She checks other categories—only spent $30 of her $75 entertainment budget. She reallocates $45 from entertainment to groceries. Problem solved. Still within overall budget.

---

Common Categories People Forget

Irregular Expenses Annual insurance premiums, car registration, holiday gifts, home repairs. Set up sinking funds. Spending $600 on holiday gifts in December? Save $50/month starting January.

Small Subscriptions That $5 app or $10 streaming service you forgot about. Go through bank statements, find everything that auto-charges.

Personal Spending Money Money you can spend on whatever, no questions asked. If sharing finances with a partner, each person needs their own category. Prevents resentment, gives everyone freedom.

Fun Money Specific fun activities—concert tickets, weekend trips, nice dinners. Budget for fun or you'll feel deprived or blow the budget.

---

Common Questions About Zero-Based Budgeting

What if I have irregular income?

Zero-based budgeting works great for irregular income. In high-earning months, assign extra dollars to savings, debt payoff, or future irregular expenses. In low-earning months, reduce variable and discretionary spending to match income. Key: prioritize expenses. Cover essentials first, work down your priority list until you run out of money to assign.

What if my expenses exceed my income?

Zero-based budgeting makes this visible—the first step to fixing it. Either increase income or decrease expenses. Cut discretionary spending first. Consider extra income opportunities. Might need drastic changes (cheaper housing, sell unaffordable car).

How detailed should categories be?

Personal preference. Some people want very detailed categories (separate groceries, household items, pet supplies, toiletries). Others prefer broader categories (one for all food, one for all household). Start broader. Get detailed only if needed. Goal: useful information, not perfect tracking.

What about savings?

Savings is a category like rent or groceries. Pay yourself first—allocate to savings before discretionary spending. Many automate through paycheck deductions or automatic transfers on payday. Money saves before you can spend it.

Every single dollar, or can I leave a buffer?

Technically, zero-based means every dollar is assigned. Some people leave a small buffer ($50-100) labeled "buffer" or "miscellaneous." That's fine. Don't leave large amounts unassigned—defeats the purpose of intentional allocation.

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Tools for Zero-Based Budgeting

YNAB (You Need A Budget)

• Specifically designed for zero-based budgeting

• Robust features, helpful guidance

• Cost: ~$100/year

• Free trial available

EveryDollar

• Dave Ramsey's budgeting app

• Basic version: Free

• Premium version: Automatic transaction syncing

Spreadsheets

• Google Sheets or Excel

• Columns: Category, Budgeted, Spent, Remaining

• Update as you spend throughout month

Pen and Paper

• Write budget at month start

• Track spending manually

• Physical act of writing makes it real for some people

The tool matters less than the habit. Use whatever system you'll actually stick with.

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The Three-Month Challenge

Try zero-based budgeting for three months. That's enough time to get past the learning curve and see if it works.

Month 1: Rough—you're estimating everything Month 2: Better—you have real data Month 3: You'll know if this system helps you feel more in control

If after three months you hate it, try a different method. But give it a real shot first. Many people who initially resist zero-based budgeting end up loving it once they get the hang of it.

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Resources & Tools

Budgeting Apps:

• YNAB (You Need A Budget) - Premium zero-based budgeting app with free trial

• EveryDollar - Free basic version, premium syncing available

• Goodbudget - Digital envelope budgeting system

Additional Reading:

• The Total Money Makeover by Dave Ramsey - Introduction to zero-based budgeting principles

• You Need A Budget by Jesse Mecham - Deep dive into the YNAB method

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Take Action This Week

Today:

• Calculate your monthly take-home income

• Start listing your expenses (you won't remember everything—that's okay)

This Week:

• Review last month's bank statements to see actual spending

• Create your first zero-based budget for next month

• Choose your tracking tool (app or spreadsheet)

This Month:

• Track every expense against your budget

• Make adjustments as you learn

• Don't aim for perfection—aim for awareness

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What's Next?

In Episode 5, we're covering the 50/30/20 budget rule—a much simpler approach that divides income into three categories. It's perfect for people who want a framework without tracking every dollar.

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Discussion

We'd love to hear from you:

• Have you tried zero-based budgeting before?

• What's your biggest budgeting challenge?

• Which category do you think you underestimate most?

Share your experience on Instagram or Twitter using #WealthNotes.

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Full Episode Transcript

• Transcript

  Welcome back to Wealth Notes, financial clarity, one note at a time. This is episode four, and today we're diving into zero-based budgeting. If you've ever felt like your money just disappears every month and you have no idea where it went, this episode is for you.

  Zero-based budgeting is one of those methods that sounds intimidating but is actually pretty simple once you understand it. And it's incredibly powerful for people who want complete control over their money. By the end of this episode, you'll understand exactly what zero-based budgeting is, how it works, whether it's right for you, and how to set one up for yourself.

  Quick disclaimer before we start. This is educational content, not financial advice. I'm not a financial advisor. For personalized guidance on your specific situation, always consult with a qualified financial professional.

  Alright, let's start with the basics. What is zero-based budgeting?

  Zero-based budgeting is a method where you assign every single dollar of your income a specific job before the month begins. The goal is that your income minus your expenses and savings equals zero. Not zero in your bank account, but zero unassigned dollars in your budget.

  Here's what that looks like. Let's say you earn four thousand dollars per month. With zero-based budgeting, you decide in advance exactly where all four thousand dollars will go. Maybe one thousand two hundred goes to rent, three hundred to groceries, two hundred to utilities, one hundred fifty to gas, five hundred to savings, two hundred to debt payments, and so on. You keep assigning until you've allocated all four thousand dollars. When you're done, income minus all assignments equals zero.

  The key word here is intentional. Every dollar has a purpose before you spend it. This is different from just tracking where your money went after the fact. With zero-based budgeting, you're deciding in advance.

  This method was popularized by financial educator Dave Ramsey, though the concept has been around in various forms for decades. Ramsey calls it giving every dollar a name. The idea is that when money has a specific purpose, you're way less likely to waste it.

  Now, here's what zero-based budgeting is not. It's not restrictive in the way you might think. You can absolutely budget for fun money, dining out, entertainment, shopping, whatever matters to you. The point isn't to eliminate spending. The point is to make spending intentional.

  Let's talk about why this method works so well for certain people.

  First, it eliminates decision fatigue. When you've already decided where your money goes, you don't have to make that decision every time you're tempted to spend. You check your budget, see what you have allocated for that category, and make your choice based on that.

  Second, it reveals spending patterns. When you have to assign every dollar, you quickly realize where your money actually goes. Maybe you think you spend one hundred dollars a month eating out, but when you look at your actual spending, it's closer to three hundred. Zero-based budgeting makes that visible.

  Third, it prioritizes what matters. You have to make trade-offs. If you want to spend more on travel, you might need to spend less on something else. This forces you to think about your values and what you actually care about.

  Fourth, it's great for variable income. If your income changes month to month, zero-based budgeting lets you adjust your allocations based on what you actually earned. Some months you might have more to assign to savings. Other months you might need to cut back on variable expenses.

  Now, let's be honest about the downsides. Zero-based budgeting requires work, especially at first. You need to track your spending, review categories, and adjust allocations. It's more hands-on than other methods. If you're someone who hates dealing with numbers or finds budgeting stressful, this might not be your favorite approach.

  Also, it can feel restrictive if you're naturally more flexible with money. Some people prefer a looser system where they just make sure they're saving a certain percentage and don't worry about the rest. That's totally fine. Not every method works for everyone.

  So how do you actually set up a zero-based budget? Let's walk through it step by step.

  Step one. Calculate your monthly income.

  This is your take-home pay after taxes. If you get paid twice a month, add both paychecks together. If your income varies, use your lowest typical month to be conservative, or use an average from the past three to six months.

  Let's say your monthly take-home income is three thousand five hundred dollars. Write that down.

  Step two. List all your expenses and savings goals.

  Start with fixed expenses. These are things that stay the same every month. Rent or mortgage, car payment, insurance, subscriptions, minimum debt payments. Write down each one with the amount.

  Then list variable expenses. These change month to month but you still need them. Groceries, gas, utilities, phone bill, personal care. Estimate based on what you typically spend.

  Next, list discretionary spending. This is the fun stuff. Dining out, entertainment, shopping, hobbies. Be realistic about what you actually spend, not what you wish you spent.

  Finally, list savings goals and debt payoff beyond minimums. Emergency fund contributions, retirement savings, extra debt payments, sinking funds for things like car repairs or holidays.

  Write all of these down with dollar amounts.

  Step three. Assign every dollar until you reach zero.

  Start adding up all your categories. Rent plus groceries plus gas plus savings plus everything else. Keep adding until you've allocated all three thousand five hundred dollars.

  If you run out of money before you've covered everything, you need to make cuts. Maybe you reduce discretionary spending, or find ways to lower variable expenses. This is where the trade-offs happen.

  If you have money left over after covering everything, assign it somewhere. More to savings, extra to debt, a specific goal. Don't leave it unassigned.

  When you're done, income minus all allocations should equal zero.

  Step four. Track your spending throughout the month.

  This is where zero-based budgeting requires discipline. As you spend money, track it against your budget. If you allocated two hundred dollars for groceries and you've spent one hundred fifty, you know you have fifty left for the month.

  You can use an app like YNAB, which is specifically designed for zero-based budgeting, or EveryDollar, which is Dave Ramsey's app. Or you can use a simple spreadsheet. The tool doesn't matter as much as the habit of tracking.

  Step five. Adjust as needed.

  Here's the thing. Your first zero-based budget won't be perfect. You'll underestimate some categories and overestimate others. That's completely normal. The point is to learn and adjust.

  If you run out of grocery money halfway through the month, you can move money from another category that has room. Maybe you overestimated gas, so you move some of that to groceries. This is called reallocating, and it's totally allowed. The rule is that you stay within your overall budget, but you can shift between categories.

  After a few months, your estimates will get more accurate and the whole process becomes easier.

  Let's walk through a realistic example.

  Sarah earns three thousand dollars per month take-home. Here's how she might set up her zero-based budget.

  Fixed expenses. Rent is nine hundred dollars. Car payment is two hundred fifty. Car insurance is one hundred. Student loan minimum payment is one hundred fifty. Phone bill is seventy. Streaming subscriptions are thirty. Total fixed expenses, one thousand five hundred dollars.

  Variable expenses. Groceries are three hundred. Gas is one hundred twenty. Utilities are eighty. Personal care is fifty. Total variable expenses, five hundred fifty dollars.

  Discretionary spending. Dining out is one hundred fifty. Entertainment is seventy five. Shopping is one hundred. Hobbies are fifty. Total discretionary, three hundred seventy five dollars.

  Savings and debt payoff. Emergency fund is two hundred. Extra to student loans is two hundred. Roth IRA is one hundred seventy five. Total savings and debt payoff, five hundred seventy five dollars.

  Now let's add it up. One thousand five hundred plus five hundred fifty plus three hundred seventy five plus five hundred seventy five equals three thousand dollars.

  Sarah has three thousand dollars of income and three thousand dollars allocated. Income minus allocations equals zero. That's a zero-based budget.

  Now let's say halfway through the month, Sarah realizes she underestimated groceries. She's already spent the full three hundred and still has two weeks left. She checks her other categories and sees she's only spent thirty dollars on entertainment out of her seventy five dollar budget. She reallocates forty five dollars from entertainment to groceries. Problem solved. She's still within her overall budget.

  Let's talk about some common categories people forget.

  First, irregular expenses. Things like annual insurance premiums, car registration, holiday gifts, or home repairs. These don't happen every month, but they do happen. Set up sinking funds for these. If you know you'll spend six hundred dollars on holiday gifts in December, save fifty dollars per month starting in January. That's your holiday gift sinking fund.

  Second, small subscriptions. That five dollar app subscription or ten dollar streaming service you forgot about. These add up. Go through your bank statements and find everything that auto-charges.

  Third, personal spending money. This is money you can spend on whatever you want, no questions asked. If you share finances with a partner, each person should have their own personal spending category. This prevents resentment and gives everyone some freedom.

  Fourth, fun money. Similar to personal spending, but this is for specific fun activities. Concert tickets, weekend trips, nice dinners. If you don't budget for fun, you'll either feel deprived or blow the budget.

  Let's address some common questions about zero-based budgeting.

  Question one. What if I have irregular income?

  Zero-based budgeting actually works great for irregular income. Here's how. In months when you earn more, you assign those extra dollars to savings, debt payoff, or future irregular expenses. In months when you earn less, you reduce variable and discretionary spending to match your income. The key is to prioritize your expenses. Cover essentials first, then work down your priority list until you run out of money to assign.

  Question two. What if my expenses exceed my income?

  This is a tough situation, but zero-based budgeting makes it visible, which is the first step to fixing it. You need to either increase income or decrease expenses. Look for areas to cut, starting with discretionary spending. Consider ways to earn extra income. This might also be a sign you need a more drastic change, like moving to a cheaper place or selling a car you can't afford.

  Question three. How detailed should my categories be?

  This is personal preference. Some people like very detailed categories. Separate lines for groceries, household items, pet supplies, toiletries. Others prefer broader categories. One line for all food, one for all household stuff. Start broader and get more detailed only if you need to. The goal is useful information, not perfect tracking.

  Question four. What about savings? Where does that fit?

  Savings should be a category just like rent or groceries. Pay yourself first by allocating to savings before you get to discretionary spending. Many people do this automatically through paycheck deductions or automatic transfers on payday. That way the money is saved before you have a chance to spend it.

  Question five. Do I need to budget every single dollar, or can I leave a buffer?

  Technically, zero-based budgeting means every dollar is assigned. But some people like to leave a small buffer, maybe fifty or one hundred dollars, labeled as "buffer" or "miscellaneous." That's fine. Just don't leave large amounts unassigned, because that defeats the purpose of intentional allocation.

  Let's talk about tools you can use for zero-based budgeting.

  The most popular app is YNAB, which stands for You Need A Budget. It's specifically designed for zero-based budgeting and has a lot of helpful features. It costs about one hundred dollars per year, but many people find it worth it. They offer a free trial if you want to test it out.

  Another option is EveryDollar, which is Dave Ramsey's budgeting app. The basic version is free, though the premium version has automatic transaction syncing.

  You can also use a simple spreadsheet. Google Sheets or Excel work fine. Set up columns for category, budgeted amount, spent amount, and remaining. Update it as you spend throughout the month.

  Or you can go old school with pen and paper. Write out your budget at the beginning of the month and track spending manually. This actually works really well for some people because the physical act of writing makes it more real.

  The tool matters way less than the habit. Use whatever system you'll actually stick with.

  Let's recap how to start zero-based budgeting.

  Step one. Calculate your monthly take-home income.

  Step two. List all your expenses, savings, and goals with dollar amounts.

  Step three. Assign every dollar until income minus allocations equals zero.

  Step four. Track your spending against your budget throughout the month.

  Step five. Adjust categories as needed, learn from what works and what doesn't.

  Step six. Repeat next month, making your budget more accurate based on what you learned.

  Here's my challenge for you. Try zero-based budgeting for three months. That's enough time to get past the learning curve and see if it works for you. Your first month will be rough because you're estimating everything. Your second month will be better because you have real data. By your third month, you'll know if this system helps you feel more in control of your money.

  If after three months you hate it, that's fine. Try a different budgeting method. But give it a real shot first. A lot of people who initially resist zero-based budgeting end up loving it once they get the hang of it.

  Coming up in episode five, we're talking about the fifty thirty twenty budget rule. This is a much simpler approach that divides your income into three categories. Fifty percent for needs, thirty percent for wants, twenty percent for savings. It's way less detailed than zero-based budgeting, so it's perfect for people who want a framework without tracking every dollar.

  Head over to wealthnotes.co for today's show notes. You'll find a free zero-based budget template you can download, links to budgeting apps like YNAB and EveryDollar, and a list of common budget categories to help you get started.

  If this episode was helpful, share it with someone who wants to take control of their spending. The more people who understand budgeting, the better off we all are.

  Remember, this is educational content, not financial advice. Always consult with a qualified financial professional before making major financial decisions.

  Thanks for listening to Wealth Notes. New episodes drop every Tuesday and Friday. Subscribe so you don't miss them.

  Financial clarity comes one note at a time. I'll see you in episode five.

About Wealth Notes

Wealth Notes is a financial education podcast that breaks down budgeting, side hustles, debt strategies, credit building, and investing basics in 10-15 minute episodes. No jargon. No overcomplicated theories. Just straightforward financial education.

New episodes every Tuesday and Friday.

Disclaimer: This podcast provides educational content only and is not financial advice. Always consult with a qualified financial professional before making any financial decisions.

KEYWORDS: zero-based budgeting, how to budget, budgeting methods, YNAB, EveryDollar, budget categories, monthly budget, personal finance, money management

003: How to Calculate Your Real Net Worth in 10 Minutes

Introduction

Your net worth is the single most important number in personal finance—yet most people have never calculated it. In Episode 3 of Wealth Notes, we break down exactly what net worth means, why it matters more than your salary, and how to calculate yours in about 10 minutes.

No complicated spreadsheets. No accounting degree needed. Just you, your phone, and a few minutes.

Listen to the full episode above, or read the transcript and access your free calculator below.

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Key Takeaways

What Is Net Worth?

Net worth is simple: everything you own minus everything you owe.

Assets - Liabilities = Net Worth

If you own a car worth $10,000 and owe $5,000 on the loan, that car contributes $5,000 to your net worth. If you have $20,000 in savings and $15,000 in student loans, your net worth from those two items is $5,000.

Why Net Worth Matters More Than Income

You could earn six figures but have negative net worth if you're drowning in debt. Or you could have a modest salary but build significant wealth through consistent saving and investing. Net worth tells the real story of your financial health—income just tells part of it.

What Counts as Assets

Assets are things you own that have value:

• Cash and Savings: Checking accounts, savings accounts, emergency funds, physical cash

• Investments: 401(k)s, Roth IRAs, brokerage accounts, stocks, bonds, mutual funds, index funds

• Real Estate: Homes, condos, rental properties (at current market value, not purchase price)

• Vehicles: Cars, motorcycles, boats (at current value using tools like Kelley Blue Book)

• Valuable Personal Property: Jewelry, art, collectibles with significant resale value

• Business Equity: Value of any business you own (may require professional valuation)

What Counts as Liabilities

Liabilities are things you owe:

• Credit card debt

• Student loans (federal and private)

• Auto loans

• Personal loans

• Mortgages

• Medical bills

• Any other debt

What You Don't Include

Don't include future income or intangible assets like your education or skills. Net worth only counts what you own and owe right now.

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Step-by-Step: Calculate Your Net Worth

Step 1: List All Your Assets

Open your banking app and note your checking and savings balances. Check retirement accounts (401(k), IRA). Review any brokerage or investment accounts. If you own a home, look up the estimated value (Zillow, Redfin). Check your car's value (Kelley Blue Book). Consider any valuable jewelry, art, or collectibles (realistic resale value only).

Add all these numbers together = Total Assets

Step 2: List All Your Liabilities

Check all credit card balances. Note student loan totals. Check car loan remaining balance. Review mortgage remaining balance. List any other debt (personal loans, medical bills).

Add all these numbers together = Total Liabilities

Step 3: Calculate Your Net Worth

Total Assets - Total Liabilities = Your Net Worth

Example:

• Total Assets: $345,000

• Total Liabilities: $289,000

• Net Worth: $56,000

That's it. You now know your net worth.

What to Do With Your Number

Don't Compare to Others

Your friend might have inherited money. Your coworker might have more student debt. These comparisons are useless. The only comparison that matters is you today versus you in the future.

Track It Over Time

Calculate your net worth every 3-6 months. This is how you measure real financial progress. As you pay down debt and build savings, you'll watch the number grow—which is incredibly motivating.

Set Goals

Maybe you want to reach $100,000 net worth in three years. Or get to zero if you're currently negative. Having a specific target makes financial decisions clearer.

Understand What Moves the Needle

There are only four ways to increase net worth:

1. Increase assets by saving more

2. Decrease liabilities by paying off debt

3. Grow existing assets through investment returns

4. Avoid taking on new debt

Every financial decision affects your net worth in one of these four ways.

Common Scenarios Explained

Negative Net Worth

This is common, especially with student loans or a recent home purchase with a small down payment. It's not a moral failing—it just means you owe more than you own right now. Focus on reducing debt while building assets.

Low but Positive Net Worth

Maybe it's $5,000 or $10,000. That's progress—you're in the black. Now focus on increasing that number consistently. Even $5,000 per year of growth is meaningful.

House Rich, Cash Poor

Most of your net worth is tied up in your home, but you don't have much liquidity. Consider building up liquid assets like savings and investments alongside your home equity.

High Income, Low Net Worth

This usually means lifestyle inflation has consumed your earnings. You're making good money but not keeping it. Focus on increasing your savings rate.

The Power of Compound Growth

Net worth tends to grow slowly at first, then accelerates. Early on, you might increase net worth by $5,000 per year through saving. As investments compound and debt decreases, growth accelerates. Suddenly you're adding $20,000 per year, then $50,000, without changing your savings habits. That's compound growth and debt reduction working together.

Important Reminders

Net Worth Isn't Everything

You could have high net worth but no emergency fund (risky). Or modest net worth but excellent cash flow and low expenses (stable). Net worth is one metric among many.

Don't Obsess

Some people become fixated on the number and refuse to spend on things that matter. Don't do that. Net worth is a tool for understanding your position, not a competition.

Balance Matters

Use net worth alongside other metrics: emergency fund status, debt-to-income ratio, savings rate, and cash flow. The complete picture matters more than any single number.

Resources & Tools

Free Resources:

• Net Worth Calculator - Simple way to calculate and track your net worth

Asset Valuation Tools:

• Zillow - Estimate home values

• Redfin - Alternative real estate valuation

• Kelley Blue Book - Vehicle valuations

• Edmunds - Alternative vehicle pricing tool

Take Action This Week

Today:

• Calculate your net worth using the steps above

• Access the free net worth calculator

• Write down today's date and your number

This Week:

• Set a reminder to recalculate in 3 months

• Identify which area will have the biggest impact (increase assets or decrease liabilities)

• Make one small change that moves your net worth in the right direction

This Month:

• Share this exercise with a partner or accountability friend

• Create a 6-month net worth goal

• Review your progress from this starting point

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Discussion

We'd love to hear from you:

• Did you calculate your net worth for the first time?

• What surprised you most about your number?

• What's your net worth goal for 6 months from now?

Share your journey on Instagram or Twitter using #WealthNotes.

---

Listen to More Episodes

Previous Episodes:

• Episode 1: What is Wealth Notes? Start Here

• Episode 2: The 3 Money Mistakes Most People Make in Their Twenties

Next Episode: Episode 4: Zero-Based Budgeting Explained - Coming Tuesday

Subscribe:

• YouTube

• Episode Transcript

  Welcome back to Wealth Notes, financial clarity, one note at a time. This is episode three, and today we're tackling something that sounds intimidating but is actually surprisingly simple. We're calculating your net worth.

  Now, before your eyes glaze over, stay with me. This isn't boring accounting stuff. Your net worth is basically your financial report card, and knowing this number is like having a GPS for your money. You can't figure out where you're going if you don't know where you are. And here's the best part, you can calculate it in about ten minutes with nothing more than your phone and maybe a piece of paper.

  By the end of this episode, you'll know exactly what net worth means, why it matters way more than your salary, how to calculate yours step by step, and what to do with that number once you have it.

  Quick reminder before we dive in. This is educational content, not financial advice. I'm not a financial advisor. Think of this as your starting point for understanding concepts. For personalized guidance, always work with a qualified financial professional.

  Alright, let's start with the basics. What exactly is net worth?

  Your net worth is super simple. It's everything you own minus everything you owe. That's it. Assets minus liabilities equals net worth. If you own a car worth ten thousand dollars and you owe five thousand on the loan, that car contributes five thousand to your net worth. If you have twenty thousand in savings and fifteen thousand in student loans, your net worth from those two things is five thousand.

  Here's why this number matters more than your income. You could be making six figures but have negative net worth if you're drowning in debt. Or you could make a modest salary but have a solid positive net worth because you've been saving and investing consistently. Net worth tells the real story of your financial health.

  Now, one quick note. If you calculate your net worth and it's negative, don't panic. Lots of people start with negative net worth, especially if they have student loans or other debt. The point isn't to judge yourself. The point is to know your starting number so you can track progress over time.

  Let's talk about what counts as an asset. Assets are things you own that have value.

  First, cash and savings. This includes your checking account, savings account, emergency fund, and any cash you have sitting around. Pretty straightforward.

  Second, investments. This is money in retirement accounts like your four oh one k or Roth IRA, brokerage accounts, stocks, bonds, mutual funds, index funds, all of that counts.

  Third, real estate. If you own a home, condo, or any property, you'll include the current market value. Not what you paid for it, not what you hope it's worth, but what it would realistically sell for today. You can check sites like Zillow or Redfin for estimates, though these aren't perfect.

  Fourth, vehicles. Cars, motorcycles, boats. Again, current value, not what you paid. You can use Kelley Blue Book or similar sites to get an estimate.

  Fifth, valuable personal property. This is things like jewelry, art, collectibles, or anything else that has significant resale value. We're not talking about your clothes or everyday stuff. We're talking about items you could actually sell for a decent amount of money.

  Sixth, business equity. If you own a business, the value of that business counts as an asset. This can be tricky to calculate, so if you own a business, you might want professional help with this part.

  Now let's talk about liabilities. These are things you owe.

  First, credit card debt. The total balance across all your credit cards.

  Second, student loans. Whether federal or private, the total amount you owe.

  Third, auto loans. What you still owe on your car, not what the car is worth.

  Fourth, personal loans. This could be loans from family, friends, or institutions.

  Fifth, mortgage. The remaining balance on your home loan.

  Sixth, any other debt. Medical bills, business loans, home equity loans, anything you owe to anyone.

  Here's what you don't include. You don't include future income. Just because you're going to get paid next week doesn't count as an asset today. You also don't include things like your education or skills. Yes, those have value, but they're not part of net worth calculations.

  Okay, now let's actually do this. Grab your phone or a piece of paper. We're going to walk through this together.

  Step one. List all your assets and their current values.

  Open your banking app and write down your checking account balance. Do the same for savings. If you have multiple accounts, add them all up. Let's say you have two thousand in checking and eight thousand in savings. Write down ten thousand for cash.

  Next, check your retirement accounts. Log into your four oh one k and see the current balance. Check your Roth IRA if you have one. Let's say you have fifteen thousand total in retirement accounts. Write that down.

  Do you have a brokerage account or any other investments? Add those up. Maybe that's another three thousand. Write it down.

  If you own a home, look up the estimated value. Let's say your home is worth three hundred thousand. Write that down. If you own a car, check Kelley Blue Book for its current value. Maybe your car is worth twelve thousand. Write it down.

  Any valuable jewelry, art, or collectibles? Be honest about what they'd actually sell for, not sentimental value. Maybe you have five thousand worth of items. Write it down.

  Now add all those numbers together. In our example, that's ten thousand plus fifteen thousand plus three thousand plus three hundred thousand plus twelve thousand plus five thousand. That equals three hundred forty five thousand in total assets.

  Step two. List all your liabilities and what you owe.

  Check your credit card balances. Let's say you have three thousand across all cards. Write it down.

  Student loans? Maybe you owe thirty thousand. Write it down.

  Car loan remaining balance? Let's say four thousand. Write it down.

  Mortgage remaining balance? Check your latest statement. Let's say you owe two hundred fifty thousand. Write it down.

  Any other debt? Personal loans, medical bills, anything. Let's say another two thousand. Write it down.

  Add up all your liabilities. In this example, that's three thousand plus thirty thousand plus four thousand plus two hundred fifty thousand plus two thousand. That equals two hundred eighty nine thousand in total liabilities.

  Step three. Calculate your net worth.

  Take your total assets and subtract your total liabilities. In our example, that's three hundred forty five thousand minus two hundred eighty nine thousand. That equals fifty six thousand.

  Congratulations. You just calculated your net worth. That's your number. In this case, it's fifty six thousand dollars.

  Now, what do you do with this information?

  First, don't compare it to anyone else. Your friend might have a higher net worth because they inherited money. Your coworker might have a lower net worth because they have more student debt. Those comparisons are useless. The only comparison that matters is you today versus you in the future.

  Second, track it over time. Calculate your net worth every three to six months. This is how you measure financial progress. If you're paying down debt, you'll see your liabilities decrease. If you're saving and investing, you'll see your assets increase. Watching that net worth number grow is incredibly motivating.

  Third, use it to set goals. Maybe your goal is to reach a net worth of one hundred thousand in three years. Or maybe it's to get to zero if you're currently negative. Having a specific target makes your financial decisions clearer.

  Fourth, understand what moves the needle. There are only four ways to increase your net worth. Increase your assets by saving more or investing wisely. Decrease your liabilities by paying off debt. Grow your existing assets through investment returns. Or avoid taking on new debt. That's it. Every financial decision you make affects your net worth in one of these four ways.

  Let's talk about some common scenarios and what they mean.

  Scenario one. You have negative net worth. This is common, especially for people with student loans or who just bought a house with a small down payment. It's not a moral failing. It just means you owe more than you own right now. Your focus should be on reducing debt while building assets. Even small progress matters.

  Scenario two. You have a low but positive net worth. Maybe it's five thousand or ten thousand. That's progress. You're in the black. Now you want to focus on increasing that number consistently. Even growing it by five thousand per year is meaningful.

  Scenario three. You have a solid net worth but most of it is tied up in your home. This is called being house rich but cash poor. Your net worth looks good on paper, but you don't have much liquidity. Consider building up liquid assets like savings and investments.

  Scenario four. You have a high income but low net worth. This usually means lifestyle inflation has eaten your earnings. You're making good money but not keeping it. Focus on increasing your savings rate.

  Here's something interesting about net worth. It tends to grow slowly at first, then accelerates. When you're starting out, maybe you increase your net worth by five thousand in a year through saving. That feels slow. But as your investments grow and compound, and as you pay down debt, the rate of growth increases. Suddenly you're adding twenty thousand per year, then fifty thousand per year, without changing your savings habits. That's the power of compound growth and debt reduction working together.

  One important note. Some people get obsessed with net worth and start making decisions that don't actually improve their lives. Like refusing to spend money on things that matter because they want to see the number go up. Or taking on excessive risk in investments to boost returns. Don't do that. Net worth is a tool for understanding your financial position, not a competition or an obsession.

  Also, remember that net worth doesn't capture everything about financial health. You could have a high net worth but no emergency fund, which is risky. Or you could have a modest net worth but excellent cash flow and low expenses, which is stable. Net worth is one metric among many.

  Let's recap the process one more time because I want you to actually do this.

  Step one. List all your assets. Cash, investments, real estate, vehicles, valuable items. Add them up.

  Step two. List all your liabilities. Credit cards, student loans, car loans, mortgage, any other debt. Add them up.

  Step three. Subtract liabilities from assets. That's your net worth.

  Step four. Write down today's date and your net worth number. Put it somewhere you'll see it, or save it in your phone. In three to six months, calculate it again and compare.

  That's it. You now know how to calculate your net worth, and hopefully you actually did it while listening to this episode. If you didn't, pause right now and take ten minutes to do it. Seriously. This is one of those things that seems like homework but actually changes how you think about money.

  Coming up in episode four, we're diving into zero based budgeting. This is the budgeting method where you assign every single dollar a job before the month begins. It's powerful for people who want total control over their money and want to know exactly where every cent is going.

  Head over to wealthnotes.co for today's show notes. You'll find a free net worth calculator spreadsheet you can download, links to tools like Zillow and Kelley Blue Book for estimating asset values, and a net worth tracking template so you can monitor your progress over time.

  If this episode was helpful, share it with someone who needs to know their financial starting point. Tag us on Instagram at wealth notes dot co, and let us know what your biggest takeaway was.

  Remember, this is educational content, not financial advice. Always consult with a qualified financial professional before making major financial decisions.

  Thanks for listening to Wealth Notes. New episodes drop every Tuesday and Friday. Subscribe so you don't miss them.

  Financial clarity comes one note at a time. I'll see you in episode four.

About Wealth Notes

Wealth Notes is a financial education podcast that breaks down budgeting, side hustles, debt strategies, credit building, and investing basics in 10-15 minute episodes. No jargon. No overcomplicated theories. Just straightforward financial education.

New episodes every Tuesday and Friday.

Disclaimer: This podcast provides educational content only and is not financial advice. Always consult with a qualified financial professional before making any financial decisions.

KEYWORDS: calculate net worth, net worth calculator, assets vs liabilities, financial health, wealth building, net worth tracking, personal finance basics, financial planning

002: 3 Money Mistakes Most People Make in Their Twenties

Introduction

In Episode 2 of Wealth Notes, we explore three fundamental financial mistakes that most people make in their twenties—and how these mistakes continue to impact people at every age. Whether you're just starting your financial journey or correcting course later in life, understanding these concepts is essential for building long-term wealth.

Listen to the full episode above, or read the transcript and resources below.

• Episode Transcript

  Welcome back to Wealth Notes, financial clarity, one note at a time. This is episode two, and today we're exploring three major money mistakes that most people make in their twenties. Even if you're not in your twenties anymore, these mistakes apply at any stage of life, so stick around.

  By the end of this episode, you'll understand what these mistakes are, why they're so common, and most importantly, how to avoid them or correct them if you've already made them. Let's dive in.

  Before we get started, a quick reminder. This podcast provides educational content only. It is not financial advice. I'm not a financial advisor, and you should always consult with a qualified financial professional before making any major financial decisions. What we discuss here is meant to help you understand concepts so you can make informed choices.

  Alright, let's talk about mistake number one. Not understanding the difference between income and wealth.

  This is probably the most fundamental mistake, and it shapes everything else about how people handle money. Here's what happens. Someone gets their first real job, maybe they're making forty thousand or fifty thousand or sixty thousand dollars a year, and suddenly they feel wealthy. They start spending like they're wealthy. New car. Better apartment. Eating out constantly. Upgrading their wardrobe. Subscription services for everything.

  The problem is, income is not wealth. Income is what you earn. Wealth is what you keep. You can have a high income and zero wealth if you spend everything you make. And you can have a modest income and build significant wealth if you're intentional about saving and investing.

  Financial author Thomas Stanley, who wrote The Millionaire Next Door, spent years studying wealthy Americans. One of his key findings was that many millionaires don't look like what you'd expect. They're not driving luxury cars or living in mansions. They're living below their means, saving consistently, and building wealth slowly over time. Meanwhile, people with high incomes but high spending have impressive lifestyles but very little actual wealth.

  So what does this mean for you? It means you need to focus on your savings rate, not just your income. Your savings rate is the percentage of your income that you keep rather than spend. If you make fifty thousand dollars a year and save five thousand dollars, that's a ten percent savings rate. If you make one hundred thousand dollars a year but save nothing, your savings rate is zero, and you're not building wealth.

  The goal is to increase your savings rate over time. Start wherever you are. If you're currently saving nothing, aim for five percent. If you're at five percent, push for ten percent. If you're at ten percent, challenge yourself to hit fifteen percent. Every percentage point matters because it's money that's working for you instead of disappearing.

  Here's a practical step you can take today. Calculate your current savings rate. Look at your last month's income and your last month's savings. Divide savings by income, then multiply by one hundred. That's your savings rate. Once you know that number, you can work on improving it.

  Now let's move to mistake number two. Lifestyle inflation, also called lifestyle creep.

  Here's how this plays out. You get a raise at work. Maybe you go from making forty five thousand to fifty two thousand. That's seven thousand more per year, or about five hundred and eighty three dollars more per month. Exciting, right? But here's what happens to most people. Within a few months, they've absorbed that entire raise into their lifestyle. Maybe they upgrade to a nicer apartment that costs four hundred more per month. Maybe they finance a better car. Maybe they just start spending more on dining out, entertainment, and shopping.

  A year later, they're making more money, but they don't feel any wealthier. They're not saving any more than before. They've just inflated their lifestyle to match their new income.

  This pattern repeats every time income increases. Promotion? Lifestyle inflates. New job with higher pay? Lifestyle inflates. Bonus? Spent immediately. And the result is that people can go from making forty thousand in their twenties to making one hundred thousand in their forties and still feel like they're living paycheck to paycheck because their spending has kept pace with their income.

  The alternative approach is to practice intentional lifestyle inflation. When you get a raise, decide in advance how much of it you'll save and how much you'll spend. A simple rule is the fifty fifty split. If you get a five hundred dollar per month raise, increase your savings by two hundred and fifty dollars and allow your lifestyle to inflate by two hundred and fifty dollars. This way, you're building wealth faster while still enjoying some of the benefits of earning more.

  Or you can be even more aggressive. Some people practice the eighty twenty rule with raises. Eighty percent goes to savings and investing, twenty percent goes to lifestyle. If you can do this consistently, you'll build wealth incredibly fast while still allowing yourself small improvements in quality of life.

  Here's the key insight. Lifestyle inflation isn't inherently bad. The problem is unconscious lifestyle inflation, where your spending automatically rises to meet your income without any intentional decision making. When you're intentional about it, you can enjoy some lifestyle improvements while still prioritizing wealth building.

  A practical step for this one. If you're expecting a raise or bonus in the coming months, decide right now how you'll allocate it. Write it down. Commit to saving a specific percentage before you ever see that money hit your account. This removes the temptation to spend it all.

  Now let's talk about mistake number three. Delaying investing because it feels too complicated or scary.

  This mistake costs people more money than almost anything else, because of something called compound growth. Compound growth is when your money earns returns, and then those returns also earn returns, creating a snowball effect over time.

  Here's a simple example. Let's say you invest five thousand dollars at age twenty five, and it grows at an average of seven percent per year. You never add another dollar to it. By age sixty five, that five thousand dollars has grown to about seventy four thousand dollars. Now let's say you wait until age thirty five to invest that same five thousand dollars. Same seven percent growth. By age sixty five, it's only grown to about thirty eight thousand dollars. You cut your final amount almost in half by waiting just ten years.

  That's the power of time in investing, and it's also the cost of delay. Every year you wait is a year of potential growth you're giving up.

  So why do people delay? Usually it's one of three reasons. First, they think they need a lot of money to start. Second, they're intimidated by the process. Third, they're afraid of losing money.

  Let's address each of these. First, you don't need a lot of money to start investing. Many brokerage platforms now allow you to start with as little as one dollar. You can buy fractional shares of stocks or invest in low cost index funds with minimal amounts. The important thing is to start, even if it's small.

  Second, the process is much simpler than it seems. Opening a brokerage account takes about fifteen minutes. Buying an index fund is as easy as clicking a few buttons. You don't need to understand complex financial theories or pick individual stocks. Simple, low cost index funds that track the overall market are a proven strategy for long term wealth building. Financial expert John Bogle, who founded Vanguard and created the first index fund, spent his career advocating for this simple approach. His research showed that most people do better with simple, low cost index funds than trying to pick winning stocks or hire expensive money managers.

  Third, yes, investing involves risk. The market goes up and down. But over long periods, historically, the market has trended upward. If you're investing for decades, not months, short term drops don't matter as much. And keeping all your money in cash has its own risk, which is inflation slowly eroding your purchasing power.

  Here's a practical step. If you're not investing yet, commit to opening a brokerage account this week. You don't have to fund it immediately. Just get the account open. Fidelity, Vanguard, and Schwab are all reputable options with low fees and good beginner resources. Once the account is open, the barrier to actually investing becomes much lower.

  Then, start small. Even if it's just fifty dollars a month into a broad market index fund, that's better than nothing. As you get more comfortable and your income grows, you can increase the amount.

  Let's recap these three mistakes.

  Mistake number one is confusing income with wealth. Income is what you earn, wealth is what you keep. Focus on your savings rate, not just your paycheck.

  Mistake number two is unconscious lifestyle inflation. When your income increases, your spending automatically increases to match it. Instead, be intentional about how much of each raise you save versus spend.

  Mistake number three is delaying investing because it feels complicated or scary. Time is your biggest advantage when it comes to compound growth, and every year you wait costs you potential wealth.

  Now, if you've already made one or more of these mistakes, don't beat yourself up. Most people make all three of them at some point. The good news is, you can start correcting them today.

  If you've been confusing income with wealth, calculate your savings rate and commit to improving it by even one or two percentage points.

  If you've let lifestyle inflation eat all your raises, make a plan for the next one. Decide in advance how you'll split it between savings and spending.

  If you've been delaying investing, take one small action this week. Open a brokerage account, or if you already have one, set up an automatic monthly transfer of whatever amount feels manageable.

  Financial education is about understanding concepts, and then applying them to your own situation. You now understand these three mistakes. The question is, what will you do with that knowledge?

  Before we wrap up, let me tell you what's coming in episode three. We're going to cover how to calculate your real net worth in about ten minutes. Net worth is the single most important number in personal finance, and most people have never actually calculated it. We'll walk through the process step by step so you know exactly where you stand financially.

  Head over to wealth notes dot co for today's show notes. You'll find links to resources we mentioned, including information on the brokerage platforms we discussed, a simple savings rate calculator, and more. If I referenced any books or concepts, you'll find those links there too, including affiliate links that help support this podcast at no extra cost to you.

  If you found this episode helpful, share it with someone who's navigating their twenties or anyone who could benefit from understanding these money mistakes. The more people who understand these concepts, the better off we all are.

  Remember, this is educational content, not financial advice. Always consult with a qualified financial professional before making major financial decisions.

  Thanks for listening to Wealth Notes. New episodes drop every Tuesday and Friday. Subscribe so you don't miss them.

  Financial clarity comes one note at a time. I'll see you in episode three.

Key Takeaways

Mistake #1: Confusing Income with Wealth

Income is what you earn. Wealth is what you keep. This distinction might seem obvious, but it's the foundation of financial success. You can have a six-figure income and zero wealth if you spend everything you make. Conversely, you can build significant wealth on a modest income through consistent saving and investing.

Financial author Thomas Stanley documented this phenomenon in his groundbreaking research. In The Millionaire Next Door, Stanley revealed that many millionaires don't live flashy lifestyles. They drive modest cars, live in average neighborhoods, and prioritize saving over status symbols.

Action Step: Calculate your savings rate by dividing your monthly savings by your monthly income, then multiply by 100. If you're at 5%, aim for 10%. If you're at 10%, push for 15%.

Mistake #2: Lifestyle Inflation (Lifestyle Creep)

Lifestyle inflation occurs when your spending automatically rises to match your income increases. You get a $10,000 raise, and within months, you've absorbed it entirely into a nicer apartment, better car, or elevated daily spending. A year later, you're making more but not saving more.

The solution isn't to never improve your lifestyle. It's to be intentional about it. When you receive a raise, decide in advance how to allocate it:

• 50/50 Split: Half to savings, half to lifestyle improvements

• 80/20 Split: 80% to savings and investing, 20% to lifestyle (aggressive wealth building)

Action Step: Before your next raise or bonus, write down your allocation plan. Commit to it before the money hits your account.

Mistake #3: Delaying Investing Due to Fear or Complexity

Every year you delay investing costs you potential wealth due to compound growth. Consider this example:

• Invest $5,000 at age 25 with 7% annual returns = ~$74,000 at age 65

• Invest $5,000 at age 35 with 7% annual returns = ~$38,000 at age 65

Waiting just 10 years cuts your final amount nearly in half.

Most people delay because they think they need lots of money to start, the process seems intimidating, or they're afraid of losses. The truth:

• You can start investing with as little as $1 (fractional shares)

• Opening a brokerage account takes about 15 minutes

• Simple, low-cost index funds work for most people

John Bogle, founder of Vanguard and creator of the first index fund, spent his career advocating for simple investing strategies. His research showed that low-cost index funds that track the overall market outperform most actively managed funds over time.

Action Step: Open a brokerage account this week, even if you don't fund it immediately. Start with whatever amount feels manageable—even $50/month makes a difference.

Resources & Tools

Books Referenced:

• The Millionaire Next Door by Thomas Stanley * - Groundbreaking research on how everyday millionaires actually build wealth

• The Little Book of Common Sense Investing by John Bogle *- Simple, proven investing strategies from the index fund pioneer

*Affiliate link

Recommended Brokerage Platforms:

• Fidelity - No account minimums, excellent research tools, strong customer service

• Vanguard - Founded by John Bogle, known for low-cost index funds

• Charles Schwab - User-friendly platform, no commissions on stocks and ETFs

Savings Rate Calculator:

• Free Savings Rate Calculator - Simple tool to calculate what percentage of your income you're actually keeping

Budgeting Tools to Combat Lifestyle Inflation:

• YNAB (You Need A Budget) - Zero-based budgeting app that helps you assign every dollar a job

• Mint - Free budgeting tool that tracks spending automatically

• EveryDollar - Simple budgeting app based on the envelope system

Investment Education:

• Bogleheads Wiki - Free community resource for index fund investing philosophy

• Investor.gov - SEC's investor education website with unbiased information

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Next Steps

Now that you understand these three critical mistakes, here's how to take action:

This Week:

1. Calculate your current savings rate

2. If you're expecting a raise or bonus, create an allocation plan

3. Open a brokerage account (or schedule time to do it)

This Month:

1. Increase your savings rate by at least 1%

2. Set up automatic transfers to savings/investment accounts

3. Review your spending for unconscious lifestyle inflation

This Quarter:

1. If not investing yet, make your first investment (even if small)

2. Read one of the recommended books

3. Evaluate your progress and adjust as needed

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Discussion Questions

We'd love to hear from you:

• Which of these three mistakes have you made?

• What's your current savings rate, and where do you want it to be?

• What's keeping you from starting to invest (if you haven't yet)?

Join the conversation using #WealthNotes.

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Listen to More Episodes

Previous Episode: Episode 1: What is Wealth Notes? Start Here

Next Episode: Episode 3: How to Calculate Your Real Net Worth in 10 Minutes

Subscribe:

• Spotify

• YouTube

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About Wealth Notes

Wealth Notes is a financial education podcast that breaks down budgeting, side hustles, debt strategies, credit building, and investing basics in 10-15 minute episodes. No jargon. No overcomplicated theories. Just straightforward financial education.

New episodes every Tuesday and Friday.

Disclaimer: This podcast provides educational content only and is not financial advice. Always consult with a qualified financial professional before making any financial decisions.

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Keywords: money mistakes, financial mistakes twenties, lifestyle inflation, savings rate, compound interest, investing for beginners, wealth building, income vs wealth

001: What is Wealth Notes? Start Here

Introduction

Welcome to Wealth Notes! If you're looking for straightforward financial education without the jargon or complexity, you've come to the right place.

In this introductory episode, we cover what Wealth Notes is all about, who it's designed for, the topics we'll explore in future episodes, and how to get the most value from this podcast.

Listen to the full episode above, or read the transcript and resources below.

• Episode Transcript

  Welcome to Wealth Notes, financial clarity, one note at a time. I'm your host, and if you're here, you're probably looking for straightforward financial education that doesn't waste your time. You're in the right place.

  This is episode one, and we're going to cover what Wealth Notes is all about, who it's for, and what you can expect from future episodes. By the end of this ten to fifteen minute conversation, you'll know exactly how to use this podcast to strengthen your financial knowledge.

  Let's start with the big question. What is Wealth Notes?

  Wealth Notes is a financial education podcast that breaks down topics like budgeting, side hustles, debt payoff strategies, credit building, and investing basics. Each episode is designed to be short, typically ten to fifteen minutes, so you can listen on your commute, during lunch, or whenever you have a few minutes to learn something new.

  Here's what makes this podcast different. We don't use confusing financial jargon. We don't assume you already have a finance degree. And we definitely don't talk down to you like you're incapable of understanding money. Instead, we explain concepts clearly, so you can make informed decisions about your own financial situation.

  Now, let's be crystal clear about something important. This podcast is educational content only. It is not financial advice. I am not a financial advisor, and nothing I say should be taken as personalized financial guidance. Always consult with a qualified financial professional before making any major financial decisions. Think of Wealth Notes as your starting point for understanding concepts, not as your final answer for what to do with your money.

  So who is this podcast for?

  Wealth Notes is for anyone who wants to understand money better. Maybe you're in your twenties and just starting to figure out budgeting. Maybe you're tired of living paycheck to paycheck and want to explore side income options. Maybe you have debt you want to tackle, or you're curious about investing but don't know where to start.

  You don't need any prior financial knowledge to listen to this podcast. We start with the basics and build from there. If you're the kind of person who wants to learn how things work so you can make your own informed choices, you'll find value here.

  Here's what you won't find on Wealth Notes. We don't do get rich quick schemes. We don't promote day trading or cryptocurrency speculation. We don't promise that one weird trick will solve all your money problems. What we do is explore proven financial concepts and strategies that have worked for millions of people, explained in language that actually makes sense.

  Let's talk about what topics we'll cover over the coming months.

  First, budgeting. We'll explore different budgeting methods like zero based budgeting, the fifty thirty twenty rule, and the envelope system. You'll learn how each method works, what kind of person it's best for, and how to implement it if you decide it fits your situation.

  Second, side hustles and income strategies. We'll break down legitimate ways to earn extra money, from delivery services like DoorDash and Uber Eats, to freelancing on platforms like Upwork and Fiverr, to service based side hustles like virtual assistant work or bookkeeping. We'll compare different options, talk about what each one requires, and help you understand the real earning potential.

  Third, debt payoff strategies. We'll cover methods like the debt snowball and debt avalanche, explain how balance transfers work, discuss student loan repayment options, and explore ways to negotiate lower interest rates. You'll learn the mechanics of each strategy so you can research what might work for your situation.

  Fourth, credit building and credit cards. We'll explain how credit scores actually work, what impacts them, how to build credit from scratch, and how to use credit cards strategically. We'll also compare different credit cards for beginners and explain how rewards programs function.

  Fifth, investing basics. We'll cover fundamental concepts like stocks, bonds, and index funds. We'll explain retirement accounts like Roth IRAs and four oh one k's. We'll walk through how to open your first brokerage account and discuss long term investing strategies. Everything will be explained at a beginner level, assuming zero prior knowledge.

  Now let's talk about how to get the most value from each episode.

  First, listen actively. Take notes if something resonates with you. Pause the episode if you need time to think about a concept. This isn't background noise, it's education.

  Second, do your own research. When we explore a topic, treat it as your starting point, not your ending point. Look up the tools, strategies, or concepts we discuss. Read reviews. Compare options. Make informed decisions based on your own situation.

  Third, consult professionals when needed. If you're dealing with significant debt, complex tax situations, or major investment decisions, talk to a qualified financial advisor, tax professional, or attorney. Educational content can teach you concepts, but personalized advice requires working with someone who knows your specific circumstances.

  Fourth, be patient with yourself. Financial literacy is a skill, and skills take time to develop. You won't learn everything in one episode or even one month. That's okay. Progress matters more than perfection.

  Let me tell you what's coming in the next few episodes.

  In episode two, we're exploring the three money mistakes most people make in their twenties. Even if you're not in your twenties, these mistakes apply at any age, and understanding them can help you avoid costly errors.

  In episode three, we'll cover how to calculate your real net worth in about ten minutes. This is a foundational concept that helps you understand where you actually stand financially.

  In episode four, we're diving into zero based budgeting, which is a method where you assign every single dollar a job before the month begins. It's powerful for people who want complete control over their money.

  Episodes will drop every Tuesday and Friday. That gives you two opportunities each week to learn something new, and it's spaced out enough that you won't feel overwhelmed.

  Here's what I want you to do after this episode ends.

  First, subscribe to Wealth Notes wherever you're listening. That way, you won't miss new episodes. If you're on YouTube, hit that subscribe button. If you're on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or any other platform, follow or subscribe so episodes appear automatically.

  Second, head over to wealth notes dot co. That's where you'll find show notes for every episode, links to all the resources and tools we discuss, free downloads, and more. If I mention a specific app, platform, or strategy in an episode, you'll find the direct link at wealth notes dot co. Bookmark it, because you'll want to reference it after most episodes.

  Third, share this podcast with someone who could benefit from financial education. Maybe it's a friend who's always asking you money questions. Maybe it's a family member who's trying to get their finances together. Maybe it's a coworker who mentioned they're working on their budget. Wealth Notes is designed to be shared.

  Let's wrap this up.

  Wealth Notes exists to make financial education accessible, clear, and useful. No jargon. No condescension. No wasting your time. Just straightforward explanations of financial concepts that matter.

  Remember, this is educational content, not financial advice. Always consult qualified professionals for personalized guidance.

  I'm glad you're here. I'm excited to explore these topics with you over the coming months. Financial literacy is one of the most valuable skills you can develop, and you're taking the first step by showing up and learning.

  That's it for episode one. Again, head to wealth notes dot co for show notes, resources, and everything we discussed today.

  I'll see you in episode two where we're breaking down the three money mistakes most people make in their twenties.

  Until then, keep learning, keep growing, and remember, financial clarity comes one note at a time.

What You'll Learn on Wealth Notes

Over the coming weeks and months, Wealth Notes will explore these core financial topics:

Budgeting Methods Different people need different budgeting systems. We'll explore zero-based budgeting, the 50/30/20 rule, envelope budgeting (both physical and digital), and help you understand which approach might work best for your situation.

Side Hustles & Income Strategies Learn about legitimate ways to earn extra income, from delivery services and freelancing platforms to service-based businesses like virtual assistance and bookkeeping. We'll compare options honestly, discussing time commitment, earning potential, and what each requires.

Debt Payoff Strategies Understand the mechanics of different debt payoff methods, including the debt snowball and debt avalanche approaches. We'll also cover balance transfers, student loan repayment options, and negotiation strategies.

Credit Building & Credit Cards Demystify credit scores, learn how they're calculated, and understand how to build credit from scratch or improve existing credit. We'll also explore how credit card rewards work and compare beginner-friendly options.

Investing Basics Starting with absolute fundamentals, we'll cover stocks, bonds, index funds, retirement accounts (Roth IRAs, 401(k)s), and long-term investing strategies. Everything explained assuming zero prior knowledge.

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How to Use This Podcast

Listen Actively This isn't background noise. Take notes when something resonates. Pause to think about concepts. Engage with the material.

Research Further Treat each episode as your starting point, not your ending point. Look up tools, compare options, and make informed decisions based on your specific situation.

Consult Professionals When Needed For significant debt, complex tax situations, or major investment decisions, work with qualified professionals who can provide personalized guidance based on your circumstances.

Be Patient with Yourself Financial literacy is a skill that develops over time. Progress matters more than perfection.

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Coming Up Next

Episode 2: The 3 Money Mistakes Most People Make in Their Twenties Dropping this Friday. Even if you're past your twenties, these mistakes apply at any age.

Episode 3: How to Calculate Your Real Net Worth in 10 Minutes Learn the single most important number in personal finance and how to calculate it quickly.

Episode 4: Zero-Based Budgeting Explained A powerful budgeting method where every dollar gets assigned a job before the month begins.

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Subscribe & Connect

Listen on Your Favorite Platform:

• Spotify

• YouTube

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About Wealth Notes

Wealth Notes is a financial education podcast that breaks down budgeting, side hustles, debt strategies, credit building, and investing basics in 10-15 minute episodes. No jargon. No overcomplicated theories. Just straightforward financial education.

New episodes every Tuesday and Friday.

---

Disclaimer: This podcast provides educational content only and is not financial advice. Always consult with a qualified financial professional before making any financial decisions.

Keywords: financial education podcast, budgeting basics, side hustle ideas, debt payoff strategies, credit building, investing for beginners, personal finance podcast, financial literacy